How to install

The right installation for a perfect finish

Roller Blinds 
Plantation Shutters
Curtain
Roller Blinds 
Plantation Shutters
Curtain
Roman Blind
Vertical Blinds
Venetian Blinds
Panel Glide Blinds

Roller Blinds

1. Organise your parts and check you have everything before commencing installation.
1 x Roller Blind
1 x Chain Control End Bracket
1 x Pin End Bracket
Screws
Child Safety
2. Double check the fitting location
  • Is this blind going in the recess or on the face?
  • What side is the control on?
3. What are you attaching your blind to?
Timber
That’s perfect, just follow the below instructions
Plaster
  • Check to see if you have wall studs where the brackets will attach, if not, we recommend using a Ramset hollow wall anchor gun and 10mm wall anchors.
  • You can find these:
    1. Bunnings
    2. Sydney Tools
    3. Total Tools
    Concrete
    Use a masonry drill and concrete screws
    4. Make sure you have clean hands!
    The last thing you want to do is get your blind dirty whilst installing it.

    Steps

    Recess fit - Inside the window

    Face Fit - On a window frame

    Face Fit - On a square set window

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Hold your brackets in their install position inside the recess
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill you pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation.
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Hold your brackets in their install position inside the recess
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill you pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation.
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Measure 50mm outside of the corner of your window (assuming you followed our measuring instructions when ordering)
    B. Place your bracket so that the bottom outside corner is directly on the 50mm spot. This is where your bracket will be installed.
    C. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    D. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Hold your brackets in their install position inside the recess
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill you pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation.
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Hold your brackets in their install position inside the recess
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill you pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation.
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Measure 50mm outside of the corner of your window (assuming you followed our measuring instructions when ordering)
    B. Place your bracket so that the bottom outside corner is directly on the 50mm spot. This is where your bracket will be installed.
    C. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    D. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Ensure you have the control bracket on the correct side
    B. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    C. Repeat this process for the pin end bracket

    3. Click In Your Blind

    Your blind is designed to simply click into the brackets
    A. Slide the control end of your blind onto the bracket tongue, ensuring that the chain dust cover is at the top
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.

    4. Attach The Child Safety Chain Keeper

    Using the child safety chain keeper is required by law to protect children from strangulation
    A. Clip the chain keeper over your chain
    B. Mark where you want it attached and drill a pilot hole. The chain should be slightly under tension, while still allowing free movement of the chain.
    C. Attach the chain keeper using your drill and the screw provided

    Plantation Shutters

    1. Organise your parts and check you have everything before commencing installation.
    Shutter Panels
    Shutter Frame (in sections)
    Hoffmann keys (attached to shutter frame)
    T Posts (only if there are 3 or more panels)
    Child Safety
    Magnet Catchers
    T post brackets (only if there are 3 or more panels)
    Long screws (for T posts)
    Hinge scres
    Small screws with white heads
    Gold Screws
    Paint repaire kit
    2. Unpack your kit, and gently lay it all out on a clean, hard surface or the cardboard packaging it came in. Be careful not to scratch the parts when moving them.

    Steps

    Outside the window frame (Face fit)

    Outside a frameless window (Face fit frameless window)

    Inside the window frame (Recess fit)

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight.

    The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Turn over your shutter frame and lay it back down. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the back of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill four, evenly spaced holes through the back of the shutter frame at both the top and the bottom. The back of the shutter frame will attach to your window frame.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, on the outside of your window frame. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame.

    Drill each screw at the top of your shutter frame part way in, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your custom kit.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top. You can rest a spirit level on top of the frame while you do this.

    Tighten the top screws.
    C. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. You can check your shutter frame is even across the top by using a spirit level.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.


    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight.

    The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Turn over your shutter frame and lay it back down. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the back of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill four, evenly spaced holes through the back of the shutter frame at both the top and the bottom. The back of the shutter frame will attach to your window frame.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, onto your wall. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame.

    Drill each screw at the top of your shutter frame part way in, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your custom kit. Remember it's best to attach your shutters to wall studs.

    Using plaster wall anchors or screwing into concrete, stone, brick or tile? Check out our guide for attaching to different surfaces.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top. You can rest a spirit level on top of the frame while you do this.

    Tighten the top screws.
    C. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. You can check your shutter frame is even across the top by using a spirit level.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.

    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight. The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the inside of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill two, evenly spaced holes through the inside of the shutter frame near both the top and the bottom corners.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, on the inside of your window frame or recess. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame. The front of the shutter frame should be flush with your wall, for a really seamless fit. And make sure there is an even gap between your shutter frame and your window frame or recess on all four sides.

    Drill the screws part way in near the top corners of your shutter frame, using your drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your kit.

    Screwing into concrete, stone, brick or tile? Check out our guide for attaching to different surfaces.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top, then tighten the top screws. You can hold a spirit level on the underside of the frame at the top, to check the frame is level.
    A. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. It helps to back in and out any screws in the middle of your frame. If you over tighten them, it can make the frame bow.

    You can check your shutter frame is still even by holding a spirit level on the underside of the frame at the top.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.

    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    4. Finalise the shutter

    A. Screw the magnet catchers onto the front of your light block, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the small screws with the white heads in your custom kit. The magnet catchers on your light block, line up with the magnets on the back of your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.
    B. Caulk around the sides of your shutter frame to stop light seeping in. Grab the gap seal tube in your custom kit and pop it into your gap seal applicator gun, then follow the instructions on the gap seal tube. Move your gap seal applicator gun along each side, slowly and at a 45 degree angle. Wipe away excess with a damp cloth or your finger.

    Let it dry and do it again if you've got a wide gap around the sides. It's best to do it in direct sunlight so you can see any areas you've missed.

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight.

    The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Turn over your shutter frame and lay it back down. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the back of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill four, evenly spaced holes through the back of the shutter frame at both the top and the bottom. The back of the shutter frame will attach to your window frame.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, on the outside of your window frame. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame.

    Drill each screw at the top of your shutter frame part way in, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your custom kit.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top. You can rest a spirit level on top of the frame while you do this.

    Tighten the top screws.
    C. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. You can check your shutter frame is even across the top by using a spirit level.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.


    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight.

    The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Turn over your shutter frame and lay it back down. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the back of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill four, evenly spaced holes through the back of the shutter frame at both the top and the bottom. The back of the shutter frame will attach to your window frame.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, onto your wall. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame.

    Drill each screw at the top of your shutter frame part way in, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your custom kit. Remember it's best to attach your shutters to wall studs.

    Using plaster wall anchors or screwing into concrete, stone, brick or tile? Check out our guide for attaching to different surfaces.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top. You can rest a spirit level on top of the frame while you do this.

    Tighten the top screws.
    C. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. You can check your shutter frame is even across the top by using a spirit level.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.

    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    1. Click your shutter frame together and screw holes

    A. Click each section of your shutter frame together using the Hoffmann keys in your custom kit, and feel free to use your body weight. The keys come attached to sections of your shutter frame. If they've fallen out that's OK, just slide them back in.

    If you're finding it difficult, it's usually because the Hoffmann keys have come out on one side.
    B. If you have T posts, screw them onto your shutter frame using your cordless drill and the long black screws in your custom kit. There are pre drilled holes on your shutter frame, to show where you'll attach the T posts. The top of your T post will be labelled t, and the bottom b.
    C. Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, drill holes through the inside of the shutter frame, in line with each hinge. Also drill two, evenly spaced holes through the inside of the shutter frame near both the top and the bottom corners.

    2. Mount your shutter frame

    A. Lift your frame into place, on the inside of your window frame or recess. It can help to have two people for larger frames, so you don't bump the corners of your shutter frame. The front of the shutter frame should be flush with your wall, for a really seamless fit. And make sure there is an even gap between your shutter frame and your window frame or recess on all four sides.

    Drill the screws part way in near the top corners of your shutter frame, using your drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the screws in your kit.

    Screwing into concrete, stone, brick or tile? Check out our guide for attaching to different surfaces.
    B. Wiggle the frame until you get it looking level across the top, then tighten the top screws. You can hold a spirit level on the underside of the frame at the top, to check the frame is level.
    A. Drill in your side screws next, and then your bottom screws. It helps to back in and out any screws in the middle of your frame. If you over tighten them, it can make the frame bow.

    You can check your shutter frame is still even by holding a spirit level on the underside of the frame at the top.

    3. Attach your shutter panels and check your shutter frame

    A. Remove any black bands from your hinge pins before you start. Pick up your left panel and hold into position. The brackets should line up on the left side of your shutter frame and your panel. Take a hinge pin and drop it through the bracket, from the top. Repeat for each panel.

    Hinge pin not sliding in? Check if you have panels upside down or if your frame is attached upside down.
    B. Check that your panels open and close easily. As they can be heavy, it's normal if you need to lift the edge of the panel and nudge it on.
    C. Check for a thin, even gap between each side of your shutter frame and your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.

    4. Finalise the shutter

    A. Screw the magnet catchers onto the front of your light block, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit and the small screws with the white heads in your custom kit. The magnet catchers on your light block, line up with the magnets on the back of your shutter panels.

    Shutter panels won't stay closed? Check out the 'I need some extra help' section at the bottom.
    B. Caulk around the sides of your shutter frame to stop light seeping in. Grab the gap seal tube in your custom kit and pop it into your gap seal applicator gun, then follow the instructions on the gap seal tube. Move your gap seal applicator gun along each side, slowly and at a 45 degree angle. Wipe away excess with a damp cloth or your finger.

    Let it dry and do it again if you've got a wide gap around the sides. It's best to do it in direct sunlight so you can see any areas you've missed.

    Curtain

    1. Organise your parts and check you have everything before commencing installation.
    Curtains Panels
    Track
    Track Joiner
    Brackets 
    Child Safety
    Screws
    Bracket Cover
    Return Clip
    2. Double check the fitting location
    Is the curtain being attached to the Ceiling (top fix) or the wall (face fix)?
    3. Make sure you have clean hands!
    The last thing you want to do is get your curtains dirty whilst installing them.

    Steps

    How to Install Your Curtain Track

    Face Fit - Attached to your wall

    Top Fit - Attached to your ceiling

    How to Install Your Curtain Track

    1. Joining the Tracks

    A. Identify the Matching Tracks: Each track piece is labeled with letters (e.g., A to A, B to B) to ensure you join the correct sections. Locate the labels before proceeding.
    B. Connect the Tracks: Take the track joiner and slide it halfway into one end of the first track. Then align the labeled end of the second track with the first and slide it onto the joiner until the tracks meet seamlessly in the middle.

    2. Determine your bracket positions

    Every window is different. You need to figure out how many brackets you need, where they will be placed, and how they will be attached to the wall.
    Bracket requirements:
    The end brackets must be right at the end of the track
    The remaining brackets should be no more than 700mm apart, centre
    Joined Tracks require a bracket right over the join.
    A. Identify which brackets can be attached to your wall studs
    1. Locate studs using a stud finder. Your window should have studs either side of it.
    2. Place a bracket next to the track inline with each stud it can be attached to
    B. Identify which other brackets are required
    Using the bracket requirements above, place the remaining required brackets next to the track. These can be installed using ramset hollow wall anchors.
    1. For example: If your studs are more than 700mm apart, or not in the end bracket locations

    3. Install Brackets

    A. Mark your wall for each bracket at the exact height you measured for your track to sit. For most curtains, this will be the drop measurement you supplied. You can check your order details.
    B. Position the brackets so that the top of the bracket is inline with your first marks
    C. Mark the two outside oval shaped holes, in their center, this is where your screws will go
    D. Drill pilot holes/attach hollow wall anchors
    1. For hollow wall anchors: Attach hollow wall anchors into position following the product instructions
    2. For stud locations: Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes
    E. Attach your brackets tightly using your drill and screws provided

    4. Install the track

    Your curtain track is designed to simply clip into the bracket
    A. Prepare the Brackets
    A. Open the swing arm on all brackets to allow space for the track to be inserted.
    B. Lift the Track into Place
    A. With two people (or more for very wide tracks), carefully lift the track into position.
    B. Place the track into two brackets towards the outside (not the end brackets, especially for wide tracks).
    C. Partially close the swing arms on these brackets to hold the track loosely in place.
    C. Adjust the Track Position:
    A. Slide the track left or right to align it correctly.
    B. Ensure that a bracket is positioned directly over any track joins for proper support
    D. Secure the Track
    A. Fully close the swing arms on the brackets holding the track in place. And then lock the track into all remaining bracket.
    B. For curtains with returns: Clip the return clip into the outside hole on top of the end brackets which will have returns.
    C. Attach your bracket covers.

    1. Joining the Tracks

    A. Identify the Matching Tracks: Each track piece is labeled with letters (e.g., A to A, B to B) to ensure you join the correct sections. Locate the labels before proceeding.
    B. Connect the Tracks: Take the track joiner and slide it halfway into one end of the first track. Then align the labeled end of the second track with the first and slide it onto the joiner until the tracks meet seamlessly in the middle.

    2. Determine your bracket positions

    Every window is different. You need to figure out how many brackets you need, where they will be placed, and how they will be attached to the ceiling.
    Bracket requirements:
    The end brackets must be right at the end of the track
    The remaining brackets should be no more than 700mm apart, centre
    Joined Tracks require a bracket right over the join.
    A. Identify which brackets can be attached to your wall studs
    1. Locate battens using a stud finder
    2. Place a bracket next to the track inline with each batten it can be attached to
    B. Identify which other brackets are required
    Using the bracket requirements above, place the remaining required brackets next to the track. These can be installed using ramset hollow wall anchors.
    1. For example: If your studs are more than 700mm apart, or not in the end bracket locations

    3. Install Brackets

    A. Mark your ceiling
    A. Make a mark on your ceiling at each brack location widthwise, 35mm from the wall or any protruding window frames. This is where your screw will go.
    B. Drill pilot holes/attach hollow wall anchors
    A. For batten locations: Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes
    B. For hollow wall anchors: Attach hollow wall anchors into position following the product instructions
    C. Attach your brackets using the rear screw hole

    4. Install the track

    Your curtain track is designed to simply clip into the bracket
    A. Prepare the Brackets
    A. Open the swing arm on all brackets to allow space for the track to be inserted.
    B. Lift the Track into Place
    A. With two people (or more for very wide tracks), carefully lift the track into position.
    B. Place the track into two brackets towards the outside (not the end brackets, especially for wide tracks).
    C. Partially close the swing arms on these brackets to hold the track loosely in place.
    C. Adjust the Track Position:
    A. Slide the track left or right to align it correctly.
    B. Ensure that a bracket is positioned directly over any track joins for proper support.
    D. Secure the Track
    A. Fully close the swing arms on the brackets holding the track in place. And then lock the track into all remaining brackets

    S-Fold Curtains

    Attach your curtain wand
    A. Clip your wand into the second runner on the leading end of the curtain. The runner will be slightly longer than the others
    B. Starting at the leading or inside end of the curtain, clip the first hook into the runner, so that the fabric faces towards the window.
    C. Continue hooking the curtain onto all other runners, ensure that the fabric waves from the front to the back
    D. For curtains with returns: You will have an extra hook on the curtain that wraps around the end of the track, and hooks to the return clip you installed earlier

    How To Dress Your S-Fold Curtains

    When it comes to getting the best look from your curtains, the way you hand and dress them makes all the difference.

    Pleated Curtains

    A. Attach your curtain wand
    Clip your wand into the second runner on the leading end of the curtain. The runner will be slightly longer than the others
    B. Starting at the leading or inside end of the curtain, clip the first hook into the runner.
    C. Continue hooking the curtain onto all other runners
    D. Put a crease between each pleat by putting your finger behind the fabric, pulling it forward and putting in a crease.
    E. For curtains with returns: You will have an extra hook on the curtain that wraps around the end of the track, and hooks to the return clip you installed earlier

    1. Joining the Tracks

    A. Identify the Matching Tracks: Each track piece is labeled with letters (e.g., A to A, B to B) to ensure you join the correct sections. Locate the labels before proceeding.
    B. Connect the Tracks: Take the track joiner and slide it halfway into one end of the first track. Then align the labeled end of the second track with the first and slide it onto the joiner until the tracks meet seamlessly in the middle.

    2. Determine your bracket positions

    Every window is different. You need to figure out how many brackets you need, where they will be placed, and how they will be attached to the wall.
    Bracket requirements:
    The end brackets must be right at the end of the track
    The remaining brackets should be no more than 700mm apart, centre
    Joined Tracks require a bracket right over the join.
    A. Identify which brackets can be attached to your wall studs
    1. Locate studs using a stud finder. Your window should have studs either side of it.
    2. Place a bracket next to the track inline with each stud it can be attached to
    B. Identify which other brackets are required
    Using the bracket requirements above, place the remaining required brackets next to the track. These can be installed using ramset hollow wall anchors.
    1. For example: If your studs are more than 700mm apart, or not in the end bracket locations

    3. Install Brackets

    A. Mark your wall for each bracket at the exact height you measured for your track to sit. For most curtains, this will be the drop measurement you supplied. You can check your order details.
    B. Position the brackets so that the top of the bracket is inline with your first marks
    C. Mark the two outside oval shaped holes, in their center, this is where your screws will go
    D. Drill pilot holes/attach hollow wall anchors
    1. For hollow wall anchors: Attach hollow wall anchors into position following the product instructions
    2. For stud locations: Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes
    E. Attach your brackets tightly using your drill and screws provided

    4. Install the track

    Your curtain track is designed to simply clip into the bracket
    A. Prepare the Brackets
    A. Open the swing arm on all brackets to allow space for the track to be inserted.
    B. Lift the Track into Place
    A. With two people (or more for very wide tracks), carefully lift the track into position.
    B. Place the track into two brackets towards the outside (not the end brackets, especially for wide tracks).
    C. Partially close the swing arms on these brackets to hold the track loosely in place.
    C. Adjust the Track Position:
    A. Slide the track left or right to align it correctly.
    B. Ensure that a bracket is positioned directly over any track joins for proper support
    D. Secure the Track
    A. Fully close the swing arms on the brackets holding the track in place. And then lock the track into all remaining bracket.
    B. For curtains with returns: Clip the return clip into the outside hole on top of the end brackets which will have returns.
    C. Attach your bracket covers.

    1. Joining the Tracks

    A. Identify the Matching Tracks: Each track piece is labeled with letters (e.g., A to A, B to B) to ensure you join the correct sections. Locate the labels before proceeding.
    B. Connect the Tracks: Take the track joiner and slide it halfway into one end of the first track. Then align the labeled end of the second track with the first and slide it onto the joiner until the tracks meet seamlessly in the middle.

    2. Determine your bracket positions

    Every window is different. You need to figure out how many brackets you need, where they will be placed, and how they will be attached to the ceiling.
    Bracket requirements:
    The end brackets must be right at the end of the track
    The remaining brackets should be no more than 700mm apart, centre
    Joined Tracks require a bracket right over the join.
    A. Identify which brackets can be attached to your wall studs
    1. Locate battens using a stud finder
    2. Place a bracket next to the track inline with each batten it can be attached to
    B. Identify which other brackets are required
    Using the bracket requirements above, place the remaining required brackets next to the track. These can be installed using ramset hollow wall anchors.
    1. For example: If your studs are more than 700mm apart, or not in the end bracket locations

    3. Install Brackets

    A. Mark your ceiling
    A. Make a mark on your ceiling at each brack location widthwise, 35mm from the wall or any protruding window frames. This is where your screw will go.
    B. Drill pilot holes/attach hollow wall anchors
    A. For batten locations: Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes
    B. For hollow wall anchors: Attach hollow wall anchors into position following the product instructions
    C. Attach your brackets using the rear screw hole

    4. Install the track

    Your curtain track is designed to simply clip into the bracket
    A. Prepare the Brackets
    A. Open the swing arm on all brackets to allow space for the track to be inserted.
    B. Lift the Track into Place
    A. With two people (or more for very wide tracks), carefully lift the track into position.
    B. Place the track into two brackets towards the outside (not the end brackets, especially for wide tracks).
    C. Partially close the swing arms on these brackets to hold the track loosely in place.
    C. Adjust the Track Position:
    A. Slide the track left or right to align it correctly.
    B. Ensure that a bracket is positioned directly over any track joins for proper support.
    D. Secure the Track
    A. Fully close the swing arms on the brackets holding the track in place. And then lock the track into all remaining brackets

    S-Fold Curtains

    Attach your curtain wand
    A. Clip your wand into the second runner on the leading end of the curtain. The runner will be slightly longer than the others
    B. Starting at the leading or inside end of the curtain, clip the first hook into the runner, so that the fabric faces towards the window.
    C. Continue hooking the curtain onto all other runners, ensure that the fabric waves from the front to the back
    D. For curtains with returns: You will have an extra hook on the curtain that wraps around the end of the track, and hooks to the return clip you installed earlier

    How To Dress Your S-Fold Curtains

    When it comes to getting the best look from your curtains, the way you hand and dress them makes all the difference.

    Pleated Curtains

    A. Attach your curtain wand
    Clip your wand into the second runner on the leading end of the curtain. The runner will be slightly longer than the others
    B. Starting at the leading or inside end of the curtain, clip the first hook into the runner.
    C. Continue hooking the curtain onto all other runners
    D. Put a crease between each pleat by putting your finger behind the fabric, pulling it forward and putting in a crease.
    E. For curtains with returns: You will have an extra hook on the curtain that wraps around the end of the track, and hooks to the return clip you installed earlier

    Roman Blind

    1. Organise your parts and check you have everything before commencing installation.
    Your roman blind
    Screws
    Brackets
    P clip (for child safety)
    2. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your roman blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    Steps

    1. Installing the brackets

    2. Positioning the blind

    3. Make it child safe

    A. The brackets are to be fixed directly to the architrave or wall, spaced evenly. If you have allowed for your blind to be mounted above the architrave, measure the height you allowed for in your original measurements and mount your bracket at this point.
    Position the outer brackets approximately 50mm from the edge of the blind and space the remaining brackets evenly across the width of the blind.
    B. Mark if necessary and pre drill 2 holes per bracket. After drilling holes, secure the brackets with screws (wood screws have been provided).
    Make sure all brackets are level.
    A. Care must be taken when lifting the Roman Blinds. Ensure that the head rail is fully supported at all times and that all brackets are in place before positioning.
    B. Lift the blind into place so it’s evenly spaced with the brackets and central to the window.
    Place the top front ridges of the head rail into the upper front edges of the bracket.
    C. Click in place. When the blind is evenly in place, push the back of the head rail towards the wall until it clicks into the bottom section of the bracket.
    A. Click the p clip onto the bottom of the chain loop, then hold it into position and mark a dot where the screw will attach the p clip to the frame or wall. Remember the chain should hang down with minimal tension.
    B. Screw the p clip onto your frame or wall, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit. Remember that attaching to a wooden frame or wall studs is best, otherwise do your homework.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. They state you must install a P clip if the chain is less than 1.6 metres from the floor. This is to prevent any risk of strangulation. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info.
    A. The brackets are to be fixed directly to the architrave or wall, spaced evenly. If you have allowed for your blind to be mounted above the architrave, measure the height you allowed for in your original measurements and mount your bracket at this point.
    Position the outer brackets approximately 50mm from the edge of the blind and space the remaining brackets evenly across the width of the blind.
    B. Mark if necessary and pre drill 2 holes per bracket. After drilling holes, secure the brackets with screws (wood screws have been provided).
    Make sure all brackets are level.
    A. Care must be taken when lifting the Roman Blinds. Ensure that the head rail is fully supported at all times and that all brackets are in place before positioning.
    B. Lift the blind into place so it’s evenly spaced with the brackets and central to the window.
    Place the top front ridges of the head rail into the upper front edges of the bracket.
    C. Click in place. When the blind is evenly in place, push the back of the head rail towards the wall until it clicks into the bottom section of the bracket.
    A. Click the p clip onto the bottom of the chain loop, then hold it into position and mark a dot where the screw will attach the p clip to the frame or wall. Remember the chain should hang down with minimal tension.
    B. Screw the p clip onto your frame or wall, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit. Remember that attaching to a wooden frame or wall studs is best, otherwise do your homework.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. They state you must install a P clip if the chain is less than 1.6 metres from the floor. This is to prevent any risk of strangulation. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info.

    Vertical Blinds

    1. Organise your parts and check you have everything before commencing installation.
    1x Blind Track
    Blind Slats
    Brackets
    Screws
    Control Wand
    2. Double check the fitting location
    • Is this blind going on the architrave or on the wall?
    3. Make sure you have clean hands!
    The last thing you want to do is get your blind dirty whilst installing it.

    Steps

    Recess

    Architrave

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Position your end brackets about 100 mm in from the edge of the architrave, and evenly space out the remaining brackets. The front of the brackets should be flush with the front of your architrave.
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    B. Repeat this process for the remaining brackets

    3. Clip In Your Track

    Your vertical blind track has been designed to simply clip into the brackets
    A. Two grooves run along the top of the track, position the front groove so that the front of the bracket sits in the groove
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.
    C. Push the back of the track up into the bracket until it clicks into the back groove

    4. Attach Your Vertical Slat

    Each vertical slat has a plastic peg at the top. These simply clip into the peg holders on the track
    A. Holding the top of the slat firmly in both hands, push the plastic peg up into the peg holder. It will clip and lock into place.

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Position your end brackets about 40-50 mm in from the edge of the architrave, and evenly space out the remaining brackets. The top of the brackets should be flush with the top of your architrave.
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    B. Repeat this process for the remaining brackets

    3. Clip In Your Track

    Your vertical blind track has been designed to simply clip into the brackets
    A. Two grooves run along the top of the track, position the front groove so that the front of the bracket sits in the groove
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.
    C. Push the back of the track up into the bracket until it clicks into the back groove

    4. Attach Your Vertical Slat

    Each vertical slat has a plastic peg at the top. These simply clip into the peg holders on the track
    A. Holding the top of the slat firmly in both hands, push the plastic peg up into the peg holder. It will clip and lock into place.

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Position your end brackets about 100 mm in from the edge of the architrave, and evenly space out the remaining brackets. The front of the brackets should be flush with the front of your architrave.
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    B. Repeat this process for the remaining brackets

    3. Clip In Your Track

    Your vertical blind track has been designed to simply clip into the brackets
    A. Two grooves run along the top of the track, position the front groove so that the front of the bracket sits in the groove
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.
    C. Push the back of the track up into the bracket until it clicks into the back groove

    4. Attach Your Vertical Slat

    Each vertical slat has a plastic peg at the top. These simply clip into the peg holders on the track
    A. Holding the top of the slat firmly in both hands, push the plastic peg up into the peg holder. It will clip and lock into place.

    1. Drill Your Pilot Holes

    Before attaching your brackets, drilling pilot holes is recommended to avoid your architrave from splitting
    A. Position your end brackets about 40-50 mm in from the edge of the architrave, and evenly space out the remaining brackets. The top of the brackets should be flush with the top of your architrave.
    B. Use a pencil to mark where the screws will go
    C. Using a 3mm drill bit, drill your pilot holes

    2. Attach Your Brackets

    A. Using your drill, attach the bracket using 2 of the provided screws
    B. Repeat this process for the remaining brackets

    3. Clip In Your Track

    Your vertical blind track has been designed to simply clip into the brackets
    A. Two grooves run along the top of the track, position the front groove so that the front of the bracket sits in the groove
    B. Gently slide the pin end of your blind into the pin end bracket, using the channel on the bracket itself. Listen for a "click" as it locks into place.
    C. Push the back of the track up into the bracket until it clicks into the back groove

    4. Attach Your Vertical Slat

    Each vertical slat has a plastic peg at the top. These simply clip into the peg holders on the track
    A. Holding the top of the slat firmly in both hands, push the plastic peg up into the peg holder. It will clip and lock into place.

    Venetian Blinds

    Your venetian blind
    Left hand side bracket
    Centre bracket
    Right hand side bracket
    Cleat
    Screws

    Steps

    Outside the frame

    Outside a frameless window

    Inside the frame

    Face fit

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your architraves as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the frame.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Rzpeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Face fit blinds will also include two side returns for the valance.
    Attach the return to the fascia using the clips on the reverse of the fascia.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the frame using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info.

    Face fit frameless window

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your window as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the wall.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Repeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Face fit blinds will also include two side returns for the valance.
    Attach the return to the fascia using the clips on the reverse of the fascia.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the wall using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info. info.

    Recess fit

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your architraves as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the frame.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Repeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Recess fit blinds will only have a fascia valance.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the frame using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info. info.

    Face fit

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your architraves as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the frame.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Rzpeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Face fit blinds will also include two side returns for the valance.
    Attach the return to the fascia using the clips on the reverse of the fascia.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the frame using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info.

    Face fit frameless window

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your window as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the wall.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Repeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Face fit blinds will also include two side returns for the valance.
    Attach the return to the fascia using the clips on the reverse of the fascia.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the wall using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info. info.

    Recess fit

    Installing your blind is easy and fun. Follow these 6 steps, then kick back and admire a job well done.
    Here's how to do it:

    1. Get organised

    A. Unpack your custom kit, and lay out your venetian blind on a clean floor, under your window.

    2. Mark up

    A. Place the end brackets on their corresponding sides - the bracket etched with LHS goes on the left and RHS on the right.
    Space out central brackets evenly (at least one bracket every 900mm)
    Tip: Use the edges of your architraves as a reference to keep brackets level. Ensure the end brackets are fitted to the width you originally measured for your order.
    B. Take your pencil and your brackets. Lift each bracket up into position and mark two level dots where the screws will attach the bracket to the frame.

    3. Attach your brackets

    Using your cordless drill with the 3 mm drill bit, pre-drill 2 holes where you marked the two pencil dots.
    Pick up the bracket and position it directly over the two holes you just drilled. Secure the bracket with the screws in your custom kit, using your cordless drill with the Phillips head drill bit.
    Repeat the process for the other brackets.

    4. Insert your blind

    Slide the head rail into the brackets and close the brackets to secure the blind.

    5. Attaching the valance

    Recess fit blinds will only have a fascia valance.
    The valance can then be clipped onto the head rail of the blind via the hooks on the reverse of the valance.

    6. Make it child safe

    A. Fasten the cleats to the frame using the screws provided. Do not use tape or glue.
    B. The cord must not form a loop longer than 220mm and should be wound entirely around the cleat.
    C. We take Australian child safety laws seriously. The cleats must be installed at least 1600mm above floor level, because a child is capable of unwinding a cord from a cleat. See 'Let's get real about child safety' at the bottom for more info. info.

    Panel Glide Blinds

    Brackets
    Track
    Centre bracket
    Panels

    Tools Required

    • Cordless drill with Phillips head drill bit
    • Metal tape measure
    • Stepladder

    What are you mounting your blind to?

    I am drilling into timber: Pre-drill holes and use the provided screws

    I am drilling into plaster: We recommend use of the Ramset 10mm Grip Hollow Wall Anchor

    I am drilling into concrete, stone, brick or tile: Use a Masonry drill and appropriate plugs, anchors or screws

    Important

    It is important to securely attach the brackets to the mounting surface. To achieve this the included screws must secure into wood studs, otherwise a fastener is required for secure mounting (not included).
    Make sure the fastener you purchase is suitable for the weight of the product. If you are unsure, please contact us so we can suggest the correct fastener.

    Steps

    Brackets

    Positioning the track

    Attaching the Panels

    Child Safe Control Wand

    Screw in brackets

    Keep the end brackets 50mm in from the edge of the architrave and space evenly across the window
    Ensure that the height of your bracket is at the height which you measured for your order
    Mark if necessary and pre drill 2 holes before securing the brackets with screws
    Tip
    For large blinds it is best to have a second person help hold the blind in position
    Lift the track into place, ensuring that it is evenly spaced across your window.
    Insert the back of the bracket into the groove on the top at the rear of the track.
    Lift the front of the track up and click into place.
    • Fold the top of the panel width wise along the plastic spline
    • Unscrew the end cap on the relevant top rail
    • Insert the folded section of the blind into the top rail
    • Replace the top rail end cap
    • Hook the wands to both ends of the track for easy operation
    • To open and close, slowly push or pull the wand in the direction that is required

    Screw in brackets

    Keep the end brackets 50mm in from the edge of the architrave and space evenly across the window
    Ensure that the height of your bracket is at the height which you measured for your order
    Mark if necessary and pre drill 2 holes before securing the brackets with screws
    Tip
    For large blinds it is best to have a second person help hold the blind in position
    Lift the track into place, ensuring that it is evenly spaced across your window.
    Insert the back of the bracket into the groove on the top at the rear of the track.
    Lift the front of the track up and click into place.
    • Fold the top of the panel width wise along the plastic spline
    • Unscrew the end cap on the relevant top rail
    • Insert the folded section of the blind into the top rail
    • Replace the top rail end cap
    • Hook the wands to both ends of the track for easy operation
    • To open and close, slowly push or pull the wand in the direction that is required

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